The Most Hilarious #KoiKoiNE Account You Will Ever Read

Kidepo, that one national park that had eluded me for soooo long. I mean, to begin with, it’s like on the other side of the world. Like those ends of Russia. Next, the place is just troubled. The Kony business, mbu we won’t wait for Karamoja to develop…basically moob negativity. But Kidepo was also the place rumored to be the most exciting national park in Uganda. Gaah, it’s like those flirtations where you fear the opponent because they look like they’ll be bad for you but want them so badly and the intense conflicting emotional extremes just leave you in a rollercoaster state. Yah, something like that.

So, when KoiKoi announced that their Easter trip was to Kidepo, I peed myself a little. I mean, how often do the stars align this perfectly? Check this out, it’s Easter, the longest weekend in the year, I’m coming out of a month of major stress and unreliable health, I’m also finishing my annual lent alcohol fast, I love KoiKoi trips…such great company and vibes…who else would you want to be with to conquer the last remaining national park, Kidepo, a place so far that I could travel to it and let the distance help me forget the woes of adulting!! Like I said, the stars were in a straight line.

Judith Otala checking the stars’ alignment in day time. | Photo credit Ninno Jack Jr.

So, Friday morning found me caning winter and jumping on a bike before the sun had even come out and rushing to Shell Kira Road, which was the meeting point, to catch the bus. Yeah, baby!! A cursory glance at the rest of the crew made me realize I knew at least a third of the people on the bus already from previous encounters. This Kampala can want to be small. I later learnt from conversations that many were on this trip for similar reasons as I, to escape this shrinking Kampala.

We set off once everyone was locked and loaded and the destressing began almost immediately. It’s guaranteed that if you ever find yourself on a coaster heading out of town with a group of youth and there is alcohol on the vehicle, within 30 minutes of leaving the outcasts of town someone will be twerking in said vehicle. Hi Cindy. I am not ashamed to confess that I have ever been that person. In my defense, I chose dare in a game vs truth and I am not one to back away from a challenge. Also, these trips are an opportunity to let my ratchet side have some easy easy breathing space so if not why not.

We’d been told that the journey would be long but what they forgot to warn us about was the number of times people would want to pee. It’s like we were doing the breadcrumb thing from Hansel and Gretel, but with pee. This significantly increased the duration of the journey. But me I’ve been on a bus for a day and a half nga I’m going to Dar Es Salaam so this was easy. Others though, not so much. The twerking had stopped, sadly, people had dozed off and woken up like twice already, kaboozi had been exhausted, there was a case of the shady looking lunch from Gulu…in conclusion, we were more than ready to arrive. The bus driver was a steady chap and bambi he got us to the cribs properly. Only to find there other people I knew from Kampala who had come to chill like us and also sing Ester tunes with the local population. This Uganda can want to be small. I somehow managed to get myself recruited into the choir but foxed them on the real day of singing. At least we know I’d make a great Judas in an Easter play.

Mr. Paul Nsubuga our driver. Photo credit: Ninno Jack Jr.

Our accommodation was some two-bed bu modern huts, though some people got into a self-contained VIP arrangement. Lucky buggers. The bu huts were named after animals and mine was that of some creature I’ve never heard of. That made it easy to remember. Next mission was to shower off the fatigue and dirt from the long journey before supper. This is where things got interesting. There were two bathrooms for like 8 bu huts a.k.a. 16 people. That part was kawa. The interesting part was that the bathroom showers didn’t work so we had to fetch the water using some big basins outside and carry it into the shower. But someone had left some water in the basins and the beetles in the neighborhood had decided to use it as their swimming pool. After evicting them, I filled the basin and carried it into the shower. The next problem presented itself. The shower doors had this big rectangular hole in the middle that didn’t close so you would be exposed as you went about your business. As in? This was a bit too much like high school. But I adapt quickly so I closed the door on my towel such that it was covering the hole. Sharpness! I then stripped and bent to scoop water to begin the shower and that’s when I realized the next issue. There was a gathering of even more beetles in the bathroom and they were now giving me this ‘why are you running’ look. But I was already bent over and exposed so I decided I was going to act like this was totally normal. I went ahead with my shower while they continued watching me suspiciously. I must have put on quite a showering show because by the time I was done, they looked more at ease. This is when I realized my next problem. To dry myself, I’d have to remove the towel from the door and leave myself exposed to those on the outside. But I’d just put on a show for a group of beetles so this was not the time to become shy. I removed the towel and dried myself while having a conversation with the people outside that were waiting to shower next. It was at this point that I accepted that I was in the wilderness and the rules were different here.

Light painting – Roland in the shot. Photo credit: Nze Eve

Supper was on point, we settled around the campfire, took swings at our drinks, shot light bender photos with the incredible Eve and generally had a merry time. Next morning, we early birded and rushed to the edge of the accommodation grounds to get some early morning shots of the sunrise. And boy or boy were we rewarded for our efforts. The sun had gone to Mona studios for a do-over and she emerged from the horizon looking like a million bucks. Katondest! This was it, this was what we came for. We snapped away with our cameras as the sun climbed the sky and went back to our rooms full of life. This was how mornings are supposed to be like, bathing in the sun as it replenishes your spirit and gives you energy for the new day.

The first day’s activities included a drive to a nearby traditional village of the people native to the area code. I have my issues with people tourism, coz of the potentially bad conditioning this put-on-an-act routine can have on the community in the long run and how my private nature cringes at the intrusiveness of these visits, so I kind of zoned out at this part and only switched back on when they started dancing them high jump traditional dances. Yo, there was no way I was going to miss out on that business. I did a few jumps, a couple of 1 -2 steps and signed out early coz my energy levels couldn’t match the locals. I might have left with a wife from there though. It’s hard to tell because I missed out on the part where they were explaining the courting purposes of the dance.

The people here living the culture and in the moment in the karamojong courtship dance. Photo credit: Ninno Jack Jr.

Back at the camp, we chall for a bit, had lunch and then went for the evening game drive. We saw the regulars like buffaloes and antelopes, but the highlight of the trip was the two lions, one male and one female, that were just chilling under a ka tree. We ogled them and snapped away with our cameras while they basically ignored us and acted like we were just boring. Like we weren’t even worth killing. At least ko they could have scared us ko with a roar or something. Nassing. This was one of the worst blows my self-esteem has ever taken. And to think I travelled all the way to get swerved this badly yet I could have achieved the same result by staying in Kampala and attempting to vibe a slay queen with my depleted bank balance. Sigh, this world. Anyway, they were magnificent, we admired them as they ignored us and then we moved on with our lives. The game drive ended with the sun creating a masterpiece of an evening as it’s retreating lights lent the atmosphere a surreal mood only made better by the zebras, giraffes and buffaloes that were also calling it a day and heading to the bar to grab one for the road. We followed their example and went back to our campsite for our final night in the park.

Buffaloes in Kidepo Valley National Park – Photo credit: Ninno Jack Jr.

After another night of lit photos by Eve and some hectic dancing with the other group from Kampala, we dragged our behinds out of bed really early to catch our last Kidepo sunset before leaving for Gulu. Seems like the sun had also grown fond of us because it put on a never-forget-me display and I felt a tear slide down my left cheek as I the pain-of-saying goodbye feels kicked in. Even the moon hung out a little longer and was still up while the sun was rising so it could say its farewells too. We set off for Gulu but first, we had a stop at some well-hidden falls. Sweet Jesus, why are all these gems always tucked away in the middle of nowhere? The adrenaline junkies, myself included, stripped to the bare necessities for decency, climbed the fall, stood under the descending water and let it wash our sins away. I swear, I felt like a new human when we came out of there? Like all my debts had been paid, like all my demons had been domesticated, like problems had gone on indefinite leave, like I’d resurrected just like Jesus on that very day, like all my insecurities had been flashed away, like I knew the answer to who killed Captain Alex. To me, that was the highlight of the trip, standing half-naked  under that thundering water, feeling it beating all the negative vibes out of my life and basically cleaning my slate so I could start afresh. I was ready to go back to Kampala after that, but we still had more activities to do.

Taking the view, fresh air and being one with mother nature. Photo credit: Ninno Jack Jr.

After the falls, we passed through Gulu and went to the Ndere center of those ends where we were treated to more epic traditional dances. Mehn, the organizers had real organized. The combo of a power waterfall shower followed by some live traditional music is a standard combo. After, we took our tired bodies to some restaurant in Gulu where some serious gumere had been prepared for us to demolish and then proceeded to our hotel. There was no beetles and basins this time round and the showers even had hot water. Ah, the joys of civilization.

Guys attacked some night club called BJ’s which is like the place to be while in Gulu. I, on the other hand, decided to take a power nap first before joining them. That waterfall battering had really drained me of energy. I’m growing old. At 12 sharp, I walked out of the hotel and stood by the street side waiting for a boda to take me to experience BJ’s (tihihihihi). After 5 minutes of standing there without a free boda passing, I stopped some guy who was strolling by and asked him how far this BJs place was. He told me it was just around the corner, it’s where he was going and that I should just go with him. Gulu has been peaceful and prospering for some years now so I figured the chances of this dude being a rebel and abducting me to serve under Kony were slim. As we walked, I asked him about himself and found out he was a student at some seminary in town but was home for the Easter break. He’d left the house at 12 to go and party because he was bored.

Nga Gulu parents are liberal! After a few minutes, I noticed there was a girl following us and asked the dude about her. He mentioned she was his friend and I relaxed again but my shadiness antenna picked up a signal when the dude gave me directions and told me to continue alone while he pushed the girl to her home first before coming to BJs. Yeah, right! Kids of these days also, ate a seminary one, ever to be up to no good. At BJ’s the energetic KoiKoi dancers were leaving the floor when I arrived so I decided to skip the dancing and just walk around. BJs is like any Kampala bala, complete with slay queens even. I ended up at the shisha corner where I had to participate in a strange ritual before I could take some puffs on the only pot in the place. The group was not happy with the price of beers that night and were breaking every bottle they would finish drinking from so they could ‘finish their money’. I broke one and was warmly welcomed into their circles. I am getting really good at this when in Rome mindset. I signed out with the remaining KoiKoi crew a few minutes later, passed by a room party in the hotel where I must have popped like two ribs minimum from all the laughing we did at very silly jokes, and eventually made it back to my bed in the wee hours of the morning. I was woken up a few hours later for breakfast and to check out of the hotel.

Group photo at St. Joseph’s Cathedral Gulu, Meet Some of the storytellers who went to the #KoikoiNE expedition
Photo Credit: Joel Jemba

This is the point where I proper started feeling old. Or rather feeling the effects of overexerting myself. We had a choice of staying at the hotel to rest some more or boarding the bus to check out a cathedral that had some kind of tininess record, and a slavery station from back in the dark days when our ancestors were being haggled over on market day. I should have stayed at the hotel and rested my tired bones but there was no way I was going to miss any activity on this trip. So, I dragged myself onto the bus and off to church we went. Bambi it’s ka pretty and not as small as I’d expected. It even had a ka neat tree area on the side so we made the most of the environment and took album cover pictures. After, we went to the slave market where we were educated on our dark past as a continent. We really have suffered as a people. That did not stop us from climbing the rocks, burrowing into the nooks where the slaves would be bundled and doing Wakanda posses with the striking landscape in the background. Shout out to Idi Amin for restoring this place meanwhile.

Finally, we had to head back to Kampala. And this is my beef with all these escape trips, they always end. Most of us were subdued on the journey back as reality started creeping back and reminding us of all the obligations we’d left behind and were now returning to. By the time we hit Kampala traffic and felt our nostrils being assaulted by the pollution, the fact this was all coming to an end had settled in. Sniff sniff. As the cab dropped me home, the one thought I had on my mind was how necessary this had been, how much fun I’d had and how I needed a vacation from this vacation before I could face the world again.

To KoiKoi, to Airtel and Shell who sponsored the trip, and to the next escape!

About the author

Roland is a random badman that identifies as a wannabe hedonist, certified bohemian and occasional sufferer of mephonia. 

My First #KoikoiUG Trip Experience – North East, Not What I’d Envisioned!

My friends like to use the phrase “you don’t just wake up…” when beginning a sentence to explain that there are some things you just can’t expect fwaa. So hey, you don’t just wake up and think that you’re going to sign up for a Koikoi trip to relax and or de-stress (if the word exists). My friend, you’re going to a real adventure that will make you collect all your muscle and mental energy for the hikes, climbs, swims, tiring laughter and photo taking stunts. People take pictures while on their knees, or lying on the ground sometimes; ask Joel Jemba. And in all honesty, I can’t think of a better way for anyone to spend their money after a long and hard couple of months slaving away at their jobs. But this not why I am here. Okay, only partly why.

Joel Jemba going extra | Photo by Karen Diamond

I am now telling my story, and for the longest time, I had no real idea on how to start. I just knew that I needed a big release; I was almost overwhelmed when I got off that bus at Shell Kira Road.

One time, Kafundakreatives tweeted and asked people for what their top Ugandan destinations would be, and I personally remember mentioning that Karamoja was mine. Nowhere in particular, but Karamoja as a region was just a place I wanted to visit again, as the last time I did, I was on a work assignment in Moroto and had had no real extra time to marvel. I described it as “Karamoja and its people are art itself!” it was amazing to see how the town was growing but yet the people continue to hold their culture dearly. They walk the newly paved streets and smooth tarmac town roads dressed in Nakatukoks (the skirts with pleats worn by the Karamojong women and girls) and their shukas, just going on about their daily routine. It is a blend of urban and local so beautifully woven! I had to go back; and thanks to Koikoi, a trip was scheduled on the Easter holiday to the North East, especially to Kidepo Valley National Park and the community!

In Kidepo Valley National Park, Uganda – Shot by Mu

 

Almost 800km and or 12 hours later, we were at Kidepo on Friday night. While there, we lived at the Uganda Wildlife Authority Campsite in huts that we were told, are called Bandas. The campsite is literally somewhere in the middle of the park because we were hanging out with warthogs and Jackals on our doorsteps like they were domestic animals; and if you went out a little further beyond the bandas to catch the sunrise, you would be able to see a couple of Buffaloes in the distance grazing away, or a Kob catching and bathing the warm and smooth morning sun. Speaking of suns; the sunrises and sunsets at Kidepo were specially designed to take you on a journey of thought to the ambitious dreams you had since shut down in your treasure chest lest they were stolen; they’d make you fall in love with whatever melted your butter. It was the place to shoot your shot. No matter if it was a person or a picture, you’d just…shot.

Sunset at Kidepo. Photo by Karen Diamond

Day one found us having a rather “bourgie” Rolex from the campsite kitchen for breakfast, and a few of us checking out the observatory on a very raised platform with huge binoculars from which you could be able to view some animals at a distance. We would be doing the game drive later that evening, but first, we were off to experience the local Karamojong community and join in dancing to the different K’jong dances. They live in nicely organized huts; so neat! The guides shared a few daily experiences with us in words. It really is a rich culture! The dancing later was ecstatic; no one can pass a “jump-dance” haha (because all you have to do is jump real high, higher than your “contender” to win your bride). Even if you weren’t selected to dance, you fell in on it too, because who said there are rules to adventure? Absolutely no one!

Karamojong dance in commencement. Photo by Karen Diamond

The game drive later that evening would be everybody’s highlight. The trip’s highlight; because it already was, to begin with. We set out to hopefully see Africa’s Big Five that include the Lion, Leopard, Rhinoceros, Elephant and Cape Buffalo; and with the help of the guide, we managed to see Giraffes, Zebras (my favorites), Cape Buffaloes, Crocodiles, Antelopes, Kobs, and… wait for it… Lions! I guess if we hadn’t seen the Lions, we were never leaving Kidepo until they were delivered to us hahaha. Seriously though, that majestic pair of the Lion and Lioness just pretty much summed up Kidepo for most of us. The guide mentioned that if you saw a number of vultures on a tree, then the lions were close by. True to his word, Mr. and Mrs. (Smith) were catching a siesta under a shrub shed so peacefully, but we managed to wake them with the sound of the bus close enough to be able to marvel at their glory, and far enough to be able to be out of sight in a minute if the worst happened. Lol. The game drive was concluded under an orange sunset in the horizon, that every photographer on board captured, beyond the Zebras that leisurely just crossed the dirt path (we called it the original Zebra crossing).

Mr. and Mrs. Smith. King and Queen. Shot by Mu 

Sunday had us back on the road from Kidepo to Aruu falls in Pader, 4 or 5 kilometers from the Gulu – Kitgum highway. Now. I thought I’d had enough at Kidepo. Boy, was I wrong! No one prepared my feelings for this adventure. Aruu falls is a gem in Pader district that every Ugandan needs to visit at least once in their life. It’s a shame that the falls are rarely visited, I came to learn! I mean, just the sight of the water cascading and gushing down those steps of rocks is therapeutic as much as it’s thrilling, unbelievable, and unforgettable. Especially in the dry season when the water intensity is low, and you’re able to hike down to the bottom of the falls, swim in the little pool created at the bottom, and then climb the rock steps right into the falls and have the biggest shower of your life. No one will prepare you for that. The falls are somewhat divided by some kind of vegetation, and one has to cross over rushing streams over slippery rock to see the other side that was almost magical. Less water rushing down the rock steps (due to the dry season – makes it more beautiful and almost unreal), a calmer pool at the bottom, pouring further down ahead to smaller pools made between rocks. Very picturesque.

 

 

The side of Aruu Falls that almost everybody missed, Photo with Galaxy S5

I can guarantee you that, you will not get this in the rainy season because you will not be able to get close lest you’re washed away, but you might just peek at the mighty roar that the falls become when in their “full function!” Aruu was IT for me. I will be back; not once, not twice. And I will suggest it to everyone!

My bones could not carry me after Aruu, but we had to see more culture in Gulu town, so we went off to the cultural centre. Dance, story, dance, blessings from the elder and more dance! Who said I was tired? I killed it out there on the Larakaraka like I was one of them. Easy-peasy. I was not letting a moment pass me by. No. I did not go 800km for nothing. At 2200 hours, I could not believe my bones, but the night life was not going to experience itself. We were out again, to BJs. I don’t dance, but I play foosball and I can knock your teeth out if you try to go against me. And I did. All those men, I just knocked them out like I’m the national champion. Foosball is my sport. If there are real competitions somewhere in town, let me know. Thank you.

Day 3, Monday took us on a short visit to the smallest Catholic church in Gulu town, St. Joseph’s Cathedral for some of the most beautiful portraits on the trip, a stop at Fort P’atiko of the heart-wrenching slavery tales and lastly lunch, that was giving us our fill to last us the rest of the hours to Kampala. I can’t exhaust my experience enough, but one thing is for sure; you have known nothing yet until you see it.

The smallest Catholic church in Gulu, St. Joseph’s Cathedral. Photo by Diamond Karen

“#KoikoiNE was nothing short of spectacular,” I said to my friend on arrival, over text. “And I would undoubtedly do this again.”

 

About the Author

The first thing Karen Ihimbazwe likes to say is that she loves God. She is glad to write her heart and mind because she doesn’t speak much. She loves to hug the whole world, eat rice and beans, and is a firm believer in Teetotalism.

What Happens To You After Visiting Kidepo | A koi koi story

I’m half present in a 9am class on Easter Tuesday (no, this is not a thing, but I think it should be) when I hear the professor say, ‘Oh my God’ in response to a question. I burst out into laughter. It is a very distinct one which cuts through the room like an unexpected loud fart. Everyone until now has been dead silent in the awkward way people don’t know what to say after not seeing each other for long.

“Why are you laughing,” he asks. And it takes all of my home training to not burst out again. I’m sorry sir, I say with a sheepish smile and he quickly drops it maybe because I don’t look naughty. I’ve been told I have an innocent face. Whatever that means. I’ll need to work on not laughing whenever someone says oh my god otherwise innocent looking faces cannot save you forever.

KoiKoiUg did this to me. There are things I’ll never think about the same way.

***

You are looking out the window of a moving bus while a house music mix plays on the stereo. This all feels very movie-like. Thoughts. Soundtrack. Other faces on the bus. You don’t want to go back to your ‘real life’. Overdue deadlines. Unresolved fight with a lover. The state of the house. And you forgot to call your mother, didn’t you? You sigh.

Someone is passing around a book for everyone to sign. Very high school-ish, you think. In one of the sections, you have to write what you thought of the trip. There are variations of ‘this was fun’. You settle for;

Why haven’t I done this before?

and pass it on to your seatmate who, after three days, you have learnt is a celebrity on Facebook. In fact, you watched him write his latest post. He does a post every Monday that his followers eagerly wait for. In this one, he knights Pastor Kakande as the man of the week, Edwin Ruyonga as the fool of the week and everything else is about the trip, which for him was made possible by Airtel. The post has 84 reactions in about 20 minutes and a buzzing comments section.

The 7-hour journey back into the city is quiet and cold. All the excitement has left the voices so much that no one complains about the house music. It was a serious riot when you were going. Only Sheebah and Fik Fameika were allowed on the stereo. If we were going to party, we would do it right. Not like white people. Never mind that there is a white person on the bus who also would rather 5 Vinka songs in a row over house music. No, she didn’t say that.

***

Aerial view of the UWA campsite – Apako
Shot by Mu

If #KoiKoiNE were a movie, the part where we arrive at Kidepo after 12 (13?) hours on the road would have Who Let The Dogs Out playing in the background. You know, like what happens in The Hangover movies?

We would check into our rooms and jump on the beds in slow motion while the fluff from the pillows flies around in a dreamy way before we begin our misadventures. But we are, well I am, tired and sticky and hungry and oh god have we reached the end of the world? This must be the end of the world no doubt.

I’m finding it hard to breathe through my nose after all the dust and irritated and itchy and ready to sleep. How do people have traveling for a hobby?

***

There is something to be said about the determination of photographers to take a good shot. My girlfriend says if they had an option to, for example, stay out all day and catch the sun at all its stages, they would. It amuses me. And also um, inspires me?  While we sleep, they wake up before dawn to catch the sunrise. Every single day. That’s a beautiful thing, I think. I’d very much rather have all my hours of sleep and look at their photos later thank you.

I catch all the sunsets though. Yay me! My favorite is the one right after the game drive.

***

The sunset in Kidepo Valley National Park.
Shot By Mu

You have wanted to ‘go away’ for over two months now. Going away could mean anything really. It is only when your girlfriend asks you to go away with her for an Easter break trip that you realize that yes, this is what you want. What you have been wanting. Exactly what you need. Can I carry my computer, you ask. I have a lot of work to catch up on, you say when she asks why you would do that in a way that makes it seem like a ridiculous question. You don’t carry it and in retrospect, how ridiculous! It would be the proverbial person who sits on a bus carrying luggage on their head they have an option to put down till they reach their destination.

There is some comfort in knowing everyone else on the bus left obligations behind because sometimes you just have to say fuck it, I cannot come and kill myself. Pius, he reminds you of this every time it looks like someone is holding back. Imagine traveling 700km and not having fun. Imagine working hard and not enjoying your money. It could never be me. He, along with Cindy Wright are the life of the party bus.

Being in the middle of nowhere, literally, is a good way to ‘go away’. There is no network signal. No sign of any civilization except for the little cottages just out there in the wild. So the only ‘life’ are the people going away, and the people whose job is to take care of the people going away. Let’s all escape together baby, shall we?
And you do.

The buffalo faces make great memes.
Shot by mu

You come within 10ft of lions post-coitus. It’s exciting. There are buffaloes every 20m. they make great memes. Their faces. The giraffes stare at you to figure out what you might be doing with those things you put on your eyes and snap snap snap away. They could not be bothered. They walk away so gracefully. You find a crocodile sunbathing. It can see you through the corner of its eye. You can tell. It disappears as soon as someone comes close. You sit at the bonfire and waterbucks and kobs and antelopes pass by whenever. This is living. This should be the living. You have no worries except for what happens when you have used up the solar power. Which isn’t really a worry.

We could get used to this baby, won’t we?

***

Before I could share it with someone, it looked like other people had thought of it too. Kidepo Valley could be Wakanda! This not because I (finally) watched Black Panther in the same week I went there.

I mean think about it. It is in the middle of nowhere. Or the end of the world. But how self-sufficient it is, my Lorde! I highly doubt they buy food. If they do, they’d have to travel about 6 hours in total to be able to do that. So my conclusion is that they don’t. they grow it. They don’t suffer with UMEME, they use solar power. They have two rivers which is where I think the water comes from. Now, this is in the Park.
The communities around the park do it even better. All I can say is white people really ruined our civilization.

One of the Karamojong communities in Kaabong. Let’s say Wakanda.
Shot by Mu

And speaking of white people, how Kidepo came to be gazetted still does not sit well with me. It’s something I need to think about. In short, two people, probably men, were flying over the region and saw lots of animals so they gave the communities who lived there four years to find other places to live so it could be gazetted. Let’s not unpack this today.

***

Again, if #KoiKoiNE were a movie, the part where you leave Kidepo Valley National Park, the soundtrack would be Digi by Ngoni. The people you got away would have had a party the previous night. They would have woken the animals and stayed up all night. The party would continue as you leave. The Leadership would be thrilled to have finished this part of the trip successfully.

If #KoiKoiNE were a movie, there would be people who have found love, or so it would seem. The one day you spent in Kidepo would have brought them together somehow. And the soundtrack for their ‘moments’ would be Soka Lami by Naava. It would be very cute to watch.

There would also be people who came with the love. And it would be one of the lovers’ birthdays. And Diamond Platinumz Hallelujah would play while you hike down to Aruu falls.

We’re losing it. It’s not a movie.

***

While we were at the Aruu Falls, Pader Uganda this happened.
Photo credit: Nze Eve

By the time you get to Aruu falls, you are wondering if there is anything you haven’t seen. You are tired and hungry and just…can we go home, please? But it’s water. Water is good for your soul. Apparently. You go for it.

The guide says it’s a long way step way down and if you don’t think you can handle it, it’s best you stay. You contemplate staying. It does look steep. Really steep. And you can hear your mother’s voice somewhere asking you think of her. How she’ll survive if you don’t make it back up. Remember, the Pius fuck it voice? It’s right there. Imagine traveling to the end of the world and not taking risks? It could never be me.

You join the trek down all the while asking your mother’s ancestors to watch out for her. To think how she would live with herself if you didn’t make it. And they do. You slip several times as if they want to remind you that they are watching over you and nothing bad will happen anyway. You slip several times but you make it down good Lorde, is worth it an understatement? Why do the good things have to be so hidden?

The view is breathtaking. Made even better by half the adrenaline junkies you are going away with stripping to stand under the water. Your ancestors won’t let you do that. Or you think you have tried them enough by just coming down. You don’t join in the madness. It looks like a once in a lifetime experience though.

And for hours you all commune with the water with no worries. Not even what you’ll wear after you leave because all the clothes are wet. Stripping does not make anyone exclaim or look at you with those scary eyes. This is paradise. We could all just be naked and coexist peacefully like this. Imagine that!

***

Sigh. This won’t end today. The reminiscing I mean. This is a movie. It is ending with the jazz version of Neera.

About the Author
 
Esther Mirembe is a writer and editor. She writes about books and wine here 

Kidepo National Park – A Koi Koi Story

KoikoiNE was my first trip with Kafunda Kreatives. I have been aware of their work and their choice to take the bull by its horns to change the narrative of Ugandan stories but hadn’t gotten the opportunity to join them yet. The setup of how this is done is something they have proven for a while and have reached a point where they have mastered the art of what works.

We were a group of 22; bloggers, photographers, social media influencers and a few wanaichis like me. We set off at 7am for a 12-hour journey. You never really realise how long a 12- hour journey is until you are in the sixth hour and all the great songs on the playlist are done, the rowdy crew that decided to get lit early in the morning are asleep and you’re tired of reading that book you carried for such a time as this!

Meet some of the bloggers on this #koikoiNE expedition
Photo credit: Joel Jemba

There is something about road trips that take a toll on both your body and mind; you start having short tempers, you get agitated because you’re in this one seat for a whole day. You give side eyes to the people who keep asking for bathroom breaks because in your mind it is 7pm and we should all sit until we get to our destination. Until you get to a turn with a signpost indicating Kidepo is 40km away and it is 7.30pm and you lose all hope!

We got to the Apoka campsite at around 8pm after a couple of wrong turns, irritable but still excited! We were definitely fatigued, there was no doubt about it! It had been a long 12- hour trip with strangers in an enclosed space! Our cottages were basic campsite cottages; two beds, bare room, green toilet paper, but clean and had light! Our night ended with a campfire which set our weary bones back on the wild track we had set off on in the morning!

The campfire at UWA campsite
photo credit: Shot by mu

The days were packed with activity; well-coordinated, very informative and true to the mission of changing our mindset about how we think about other cultures around us; and mostly the ones that are usually presented as primitive by mainstream media.

Learn the language, live the culture and snap the moment.
Photo credit: Shot by Mu

We visited the Kaabong – Manyatta community, we learnt about their history and cultural practices. Some practices didn’t sit really well with our feminist ideals but learning to not engage in situations where nothing will change, is an art I am getting better at. The thing I found amusing though was how it is easy for us to fall back into the ‘modern saving the world mentality” that we accuse our Caucasian coloured friends of! Personally, I don’t understand the point of taking pictures with the children or the local people in the local community! What is the point of that? I believe it is possible to tell that person’s story without you being in that picture. Let us capture them as people and not as an exhibit for how in touch you are with the local people, or how your presence in that picture is giving them a platform to be seen and heard. This could be a projection, but it is so easy for us to fall into the white savior mentality that we are actively fighting against. An example of this is deciding to give the kids money, instead of supporting their parents through buying their artwork. By doing this, we are conditioning these people to a cycle of handouts instead of earning their living.

You should be here learning about this history.
Photo credit: Joel Jemba

The slave stories at Fort Patiko were heartbreaking. It is so sad how our history is so full of mistreatment and callous judgment at the hands of mere humans. I can’t imagine living in an era where my fate is dependent on whether the judge finds me attractive or not. The most heartbreaking part is neither paths was preferable; death or bondage? What would you choose? What I love though, is how we are embracing this dark part of our history and telling it as it was and maybe, just maybe we are learning from this. One can only hope.

I have very many highlights from this trip because everyday’s activities were curated to give you a different experience and perspective, that you just can’t choose one highlight from the whole trip. Dancing Larakaraka dance with the Kaabong – Manyatta community; seeing the Lion a few meters from me on the game drive; watching people have a Wakanda moment at the Aruu falls; dancing with the Acholi community; chasing the sunrise every morning and finally checking out the Gulu night life at a bar called BJs -but why this name? This guy had one job!

Lioness just a few meters away. Kidepo Valley National Park is a Gem.
Photo credit: Shot By Mu

The photographers on this trip deserve their own paragraph, and not just because I am vain and love pictures and got amazing pictures from this trip and maybe my own personal photographer is Joel Jemba J. Not because of the above, not at all J. Eve has an art for capturing moments and feelings and inviting you in to be a part of the subject’s story. Her skill is something to marvel of and not just because she is a woman and I am passionate about supporting work made by women, but because she is beautifully skilled and her pictures are worth more than a thousand words. Ninno and Joel, on the other hand, are the kings of portraits; take one with them and you are sure you have a forever profile picture! Mugasha, I felt was mostly skilled with nature and his photos of the Kaabong – Manyatta community, the UWA campsite, the Acholi community, were pictures to die for, pictures that should have a place in National Geographic or something.

Aerial view of Manyattas – Karamojong community in Kidepo.
Photo credit: Shot by Mu

I am excited about what Kafunda Kreatives is doing in engaging local companies to get on board to sell our tourism industry. Our trip was sponsored by Vivo Energy Uganda and Airtel Uganda ; since we didn’t get stuck on the road, I guess I should thank Shell for fueling us through the four day trip and even if we didn’t have Airtel network in Kidepo (one network had reception), we were able to post on social media about the trip to and fro and make people regret their decision to stay in Kampala over the weekend. I hope we will be seeing more collaborations like these with the ministry of Tourism, UWA and other corporate companies.

Wake up, catch the sunrise, and live like you in Wakanda.
Photo credit: Joel Jemba

Side note:
UWA has done a great job maintaining the roads to these game parks and having affordable accommodation for people while there. The one thing that could be better is the amenities at these camping sites. We were sharing 2 toilets and 2 bathrooms amongst a great number of people and the showers didn’t have running water! I wonder if it is the assumption that since we are in the wild, the amenities shouldn’t be as great but when you visit the privately-owned campsites e.g. Leopard Rest Camp at Lake Mburo, Nyore Hillside retreat in Mbarara and Redchilli in Murchison falls you realize that is not the case at all! We should be doing more!

About the author.

Judith is a lover of wine, popcorn, music, food, and intense conversations. She gets excited about Twitter polls and black Twitter clapbacks.